I was in the sweet little mountain town of Boquete, Panama for two 
weeks, part of my quest to experience more of life and chase my elusive 
dream of Spanish fluency, whatever that is. Trips like that are always 
eye-openers for me. I get to see how the vast majority of earthlings 
live, and how the roiling confluence of that lifestyle with 
the relentless current of the new "world culture," so long on aspiration
 but so short on patience, affects their simpler, purer—some would 
say more sustainable—traditions.
But that trip proved to be more than merely instructional. One day I had an epiphany. Here's my account, written that very day:
                                        –/-/–        –/-/–        –/-/–
Habla Ya,
 the fine Spanish school I'm attending, arranged for me to stay with a 
local family. Señor Guillermo Bell Miranda is a coffee farmer, working 
the land atop the steep cerro just behind his home. He and his 
extended family couldn't be nicer or more generous with their home, 
their time and their help with my Spanish. Nonetheless, I had just two 
requirements for my lodging: a bed at least six feet long, and WiFi (so I
 can keep up with my commitment to regular posting here and on my travel
 blog, El Viajero Contento. (http://elviajerocontento.blogspot.com) With
 classes taking up most of the day, and the prospect of a few excursions
 into the gorgeous area surrounding Boquete in the mornings, I was 
counting on being able to connect with the Internet every evening, in 
the privacy of my room.
 I saw a crystal clear  image of Guillermo's and his family's faces  when  they learned that I'd found their home unacceptable.  
The
 bed is long enough. But the Internet connection, a sluggish, 
intermittent, dial-up service, requires 17-year-old Antonio's shoving a
 well-used CD onto my laptop and installing a huge program. 
My reaction to all of this—well within reason, I thought—was to let Lorena, la directora
 of the school, know that we'd have to find some other arrangement that 
would accommodate my needs. After all, who's the customer here? Wouldn't
 anyone in his right mind hold a supplier more or less to the terms of a
 contract? I assured Lorena that the last thing in the world I want to 
do is to offend the Bell Miranda family, but work is work. 
Just
 then, another staff member in the office, overhearing our conversation,
 came over to explain, in what I took as a paternalistic tone, that I 
couldn't blame the Bell Mirandas nor any average Panamanian family for 
not knowing all the ins and outs of Internet connections. 
My
 Spanish always collapses to the level of rank beginner when shaken by 
any degree of emotion. Explaining that to the young man, I let him know,
 in English and in no uncertain terms, that I wasn't blaming the family 
at all. And I didn't need to be told that the school's inability to meet
 my very few requirements was my fault. At this, Lorena jumped in
 to suggest that they might, indeed, be able to locate another family 
with WiFi. I reiterated my concern with hurting the feelings of 
Guillermo and his family with my decision, but she assured me they could
 explain the situation to the family with minimal offense. So I agreed 
to that solution and thanked her.
      I wondered why I cling so  to the 
      illusion that I can control my life. 
I
 retired to the student lounge (where WiFi is available), and started 
writing about my first couple of days here. I couldn't think straight. 
Too many feelings plucking at the edges of my concentration. I tried to 
imagine two weeks at my adoptive family's home with nothing "productive"
 to do in the evening, especially considering that they all retire by 
9:00 or 9:30. 
I recalled, from all my experiences in Mexico, how enigmatic Latin American values can seem to a Norteamericano,
 but how, at some level I've only occasionally been able to embrace, 
they made sense. Then I saw a crystal clear image of Guillermo's and his
 family's faces when they learned that I'd found their home 
unacceptable. 
That's what did it. In that split second
 of clarity, everything resorted itself in my mind. I released my hold 
on my frustration, disappointment and self-righteousness, and let 
acceptance and flexibility gently nudge them aside. And, after all that 
consternation, the answer seemed so beautifully simple. I wondered why I
 cling so to the illusion that I can control my life.
So
 now I'll spend my evenings patiently and happily with this kind, 
generous family. I'll write what I can without access to information and
 photos. I'll read my book—very slowly, so it'll last the two weeks. 
Then I'll use my free mornings to get online at school. Self: see how 
easy that is?
The cosmos wasted no time in rewarding me
 for my little awakening. For the rest of the morning, as it turns out, 
in the busy student lounge, I had the chance to meet many of the staff 
and my fellow students I'd never have met otherwise. And tonight, 
arriving home after classes, everything seemed different with Guillermo 
and the family. Was it just me, or can they see the change in my 
attitude? 
Funny, you can read about how to behave 
gracefully in other cultures. You can learn some of the language and 
customs. You can try doing in Rome as the Romans do. I know these 
things, and have wrestled with culture shock before. But, at least for 
me, it's taken that little extra jolt, that little injection of emotion 
followed by reflection, for me to actually get it. Now if I can only remember it.
Monday, October 5, 2015
IS IT JUST ME? – My Boquete Epiphany
Labels:
acceptance,
awareness,
control,
culture,
epiphany,
humility,
Latin America,
letting go,
open-mindedness,
Panama,
reflection,
Spanish,
travel
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2 comments:
Very clearly and elegantly written, Jeff. I beginto feel just ever so slightly insular and insulated up here in Duluth. No matter that I read The Nation and The New Yorker. No matter that I listen to MPR Classical (now playing Ombra Ma Fu!), and no matter that I have given up television. I am still not "of the world" and this is how most of us norteamericanos like it, is it not? You are an inspiration. Carry on. With admiration, Phil
Many thanks for your kind words and for sharing your perspective, my old friend. Though you may choose to be geographically "insulated," I know you to be curious, kind and open to a fault.
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