Cuba is like that weird uncle no one ever sees any more. Once the
life of the party—an anything-goes spree destination for well-heeled
American socialites, celebrities and the mob—the exotic country just 90
miles south of Key West suddenly became persona non grata.
So close, yet so far away.
While
visiting Cuba the first two weeks of November, I was struck by the
obvious effects, not just of the half-century US embargo, but of the
influences of other countries—especially Russia and China—stepping in as
allies. Given such connections, one wonders how the communist
government, though providing certain first-world benefits like free
health care and education, has managed to deprive so many of its
citizens, for so long, of any broader sense of prosperity.
No sooner do the airs of one lively salsa or rhumba band fade than those of another two blocks ahead rise to the ear.
But
Cubans count assets other than a high standard of living as it is
understood elsewhere in the world. The flavors of their diverse
heritage—European, African and Indigenous—blend in a savory stew of
cultural energy. A distinct pride of survivorship keeps the great
Revolution on low simmer, still evident in folks' erect bearing and in
defiant propaganda splashed on walls and billboards. And Cubans are
nothing if not resourceful, scrimping, saving and improvising to make do
with their limited resources.
ISLAND RHYTHMS
The
country's lush, tropical landscapes, from jungle to beach to highland
coffee plantation, are breathtakingly beautiful. There's a surprisingly
strong sense, even when one is beyond sight of the ocean, of this being
an island—something, I suppose, about how the air feels and smells, and
how close even a distant thunderstorm seems to loom.
Even gritty La Habana Vieja,
old-town Havana, though at first glance a ruin, holds its own charms.
Through the structural decay shine glimpses of grander days. Some
landlords have managed a bit of restoration, even if it's only a fresh
coat of paint. Here and there, vibrant art delights and challenges the
eye, and music is everywhere—no sooner do the airs of one lively salsa
or rhumba band fade than those of another two blocks ahead rise to the
ear.
While a people can hardly be characterized by a
tourist's limited impressions, I found the Cubans I met on the streets
and in the countryside to be friendly, welcoming, curious…and
surprisingly optimistic. Most are excited about the thaw in relations
with the US, looking forward to new opportunities and reunions with
long-separated family members living there.
EYE OF THE BEHOLDER
I
can't share all the warm smiles, the welcoming handshakes, the tastes
and smells, the music's beat. Those you will have to experience for
yourself.* But I can offer a few of the images I captured with my
camera. Of the 1,000-plus I snapped, here are my best 25.
* Keep an eye here and on my other blog, One Man's Wonder, for my upcoming post on how you can spend a couple of amazing weeks in
Cuba—legally—for less than $1,500, about a third the price charged by
most tour companies.
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7 comments:
Wonderful! My friend and I are planning a trip to Cuba. We can't decide whether to go soon or wait a year or two. She was there in the 50's as a teenager, with her parents. I have never been. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment, Sue. I hope this inspires you to go -- if you ask me, the sooner the better. Would you two go on your own or with a tour group? Interested in Spanish lessons as part of the experience?
We haven't made any plans yet - just a lot of talk. What do you suggest?
Sue, I'd say it depends on your temperament. If you're open to adventures on your own and making new friends, go on your own. If you want more structure and a bit of insulation from the nitty gritty of immersion, then a group might be better.
Stay tuned here for a post I'll publish here in the next few days called "Cuba Can-Do," about how to go on your own for about a third the cost of many group packages.
I would say we are somewhere in the middle. We like adventure. However, we will probably need guidance and structure to get the most out of the experience.
Love the last two photos especially! That gal looks like'd be a fun one to talk to.
DJS - Yes, I'm afraid I broke the unwritten rule of paying her for the right to take her photo. I think that's why she suddenly covered her face with her fan. (I was some distance away, across the street from her.) She's quite famous and has been doing this for a long time. Google images using "Cuba, woman with cigar" and she pops up many times.
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