Friday, February 27, 2009


Pretty low-key day today. Sally showed remarkable discipline getting up for yoga class (and going on her own without Jenny's company). I went down to see if I could get a photo of her and Paty, her instructor, but was firmly shooed away with a wagging finger.
While I waited, I noticed something worthy of inclusion in my coming book about observing nature. An air-conditioned car had just pulled into Paty's driveway. As it sat still in the hot humid sea air, water quickly condensed on its roof. I noticed a dragonfly flying apparently randomly around the car and wondered what the attraction was. As I watched and waited, it became clear that it was actually skimming across the car roof, dragging its feet through the water droplets on the fly, leaving tiny tracks and, I guessed, drinking the collected water. It must have been thirsty because he made at least 100 dips.
After breakfast at Elvira's, we headed out on an afternoon adventure, hiking to Playa Las Gatas half way around Zihua. Bay. Since there's no road access to Las Gatas, most people take a water taxi from the main town pier. But I'd learned that one can hike there along the rocky shoreline. It was a modest hike, made all the more interesting by Sally's usual choice of footwear: flip flops (which, no matter how rough the terrain, she prefers over anything more sensible because of her susceptibility to blisters). The trail was heavily littered with every type of refuse, and smelled of garbage (and worse) in some places.
At the beach, we ran a gauntlet of nearly identical beach restaurants, each with one or more aggressive hawkers trying to get us to settle in with them for the afternoon. But we held out for Otilia's, the one I'd heard the best comments about. As we settled in to our twin lounges with table between a few feet from the water, we quickly met a few of our neighbors, from Chicago and Milwaukee. As are the vast majority of people we meet around the world, these too were socially inept, not only not interested in knowing anything about us, but immediately squelching and one-upping anything we tried to say about ourselves. We did meet several dogs, including a sweet great Dane named Boris, who thought we were interesting enough.

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